World Wide Cruise 2014

Day 58 – Sunday 9^th March 2014 – Rabaul, Papua New Guinea

Rabaul is a township on the eastern end of the island of New Britain.  The town was the provincial capital and most important settlement in the province until it was destroyed in 1994 by falling ash of a volcanic eruption.

Volcano

During the eruption, ash was sent thousands of metres into the air and the subsequent rain of ash caused 80% of the buildings in Rabaul to collapse.

Rabaul is continuously threatened by volcanic activity due to being built on the edge of the Rabaul caldera (flooded volcano).

During World War II, Rabaul was captured by the Japanese in 1942, and it became the main base of Japanese military and naval activity in the South Pacific.

I watched as the ship made her approach while coming alongside the same berth, I used to sail onto forty years ago.  All tied up for 08.00 and went down to the Britannia Restaurant for a hearty breakfast.

We were ashore for 09.30 and just outside the dock gate we met Sue and Rita, two Australians, who were negotiating with a driver the cost of a tour of the island, and they asked if we would like to go along, after a price was agreed, off we went.

Hot Springs with My Friend

The first stop was to be the volcano, and as previously, what I knew of Rabaul, most to the east had been wiped out.  It was eerie driving through this part, as we skidded over the now ash covered terrain.

We passed the area where the airport used to be, and it is unrecognisable, as it is now beneath 5 metres of ash.

We got out of the taxi at the hot springs at the base of the volcano; the hot water was oozing out of the ash and into the sea.  At the water’s edge the sea was too hot to go plodging, and with volcano still smoking, we were informed you could walk up to the top with the help of a guide, but we declined the offer.  The sulphuric smells of the area, and devastation brought home to you, the power of mother nature.

Next stop the Observatory from its high advantage point, this is where the volcanologists monitor the area.

Photographs, looking down into Rabaul’s Simpson Harbour, inside the flooded volcano caldera.  Photograph of Charles who was riding as shot gun in the cab, chewing on his beetle nut (intoxicating drug) while the driver at every stop was puffing on his happy baccy. (whatever makes you happy).

When we got out of the cab, we were greeted by the local children, dressed in their skirts, garlands and head dress, singing away.  They were all enjoying themselves, and of course, we joined in the party.

Japanese Tunnels

Off again, this time to the wartime tunnels where the Japanese hid their small landing craft.

The tunnels were built by slave labour and the boats were pulled along rail tracks to the beach 400 metre away, and brought back in to shelter from the allied bombing.  There were five boats in all, in this particular tunnel.  We were shown other tunnels, as we made our way further along the coast.

The road to Kokopo, 12 miles from Rabaul, to where the provincial capital was moved to during the volcanic eruptions and previous earthquakes. In certain areas the road was in a very bad state of repair.  We slid, rocked and rolled our way until we reached Kokopo. This is how I remember  Rabaul, a well laid out functioning town.

War Cemetery

We carried on to the war cemetery, and this was the highlight of the tour.

  Everyone became very emotional, as we walked around this wonderful place, in memory of those allies who had lost their lives in the surrounding area.  It is a very well kept cemetery of remembrance and obviously respected by the islanders.

Back to Kokopo and the war museum.

    

Here the exhibits are mostly of Japanese war time relics, but time was running out and we had to make our way back to the harbour. 

The bone crunching ride along the coast road had us back on board for 15.00.

Straight into the Golden Lion for two pints of Speckled Hen, brought us back to reality and we sailed at 16.00.

Depart Rabaul

I was on deck to watch us sail, and stayed there until the sun went down two hours later.

I do not think Rabaul will be rebuilt to its former glory.  It had been another wonderful day going down memory lane.  Watching the sun going down, I was saying good bye to the Islands, as we headed north for Japan, and hoping they do not go the same way as others, being overrun by the tourists.

Today’s cocktail, Tom Collins, gin, lemon and lime with soda water, sets you up for a dinner of tomato soup/salad/sirloin steak/bread and butter pudding, very special.

In the theatre, the Royal Cunard Dancers presented La Danza, which was a non-stop dance show.  They started a very high tempo and kept it going all the way the show and it was fantastic to watch.

After a long eventful day, it was early to bed and recover.