Day 107 - Suez Canal

Day 107 – Sunday 27^th April 2014 – Suez Canal

At 04.00 Queen Elizabeth proceeded into the waiting area, off the Port of Suez, where we dropped anchor to complete the formalities and confirm our position in the primary northbound convoy.

Convoy

The Suez Canal is known to us mariners as ‘the Ditch in the Sand’. At 07.00 we were at the entrance and second in line with a small warship ahead in the lead, and behind us, the German cruise liner ‘Europa 2’, a car carrier, container ship, and I could not make out the other ships at the end of the column.

The convoy system has the northbound one leaving at 07.00, and carries on straight through the canal, while from the north end the first convoy leaves at 01.00 and the second at 07.00.

Great Bitter Lake Anchorage

The canal is 100 miles long and at 08.30 we entered the Little Bitter Lake which is 2 miles wide and 3 miles long.  At 09.00 we were passing through the Great Bitter lake, this is a salt water lake, where the early morning southbound convoy was at anchor, waiting for us to pass by. 

Crossing Point

Ferry

There are various crossing points along the canal with small ferries transporting cars and lorries;  where ever one we passed, there were lines of vehicles waiting to cross.

Ditch in the Sand

This ditch in the sand is another wonderful piece of engineering built over a hundred years ago by the principal builder, Frenchman, Ferdinand De Lesseps. At the first attempt everything was done by hand, and consequently there was a big death toll, then with De Lesseps, and the use of mechanical diggers, the work progressed.  The house where he lived is still there in Ismaila, a town on Lake Tamasha, half way along the canal, and is the queen of the canal cities, with its tree shaded avenues and colonial style houses, and still the base for the maintenance of the canal.

Army Camp

On the left hand side of the canal, the African side there is a lot more greenery with irrigated fields and palms.  There are a lot of army camps and look out posts in evidence all the way along the canal, with Bailey bridge sections waiting to be used if ever needed, in any sort of conflict.

Deck 9 Lido

The forward end of the ship on deck 5 was open, so passenger could watch the transit from there, while others took advantage of the loungers at the aft end of Deck 9, to watch the scenery go by, and plenty of drinks to keep everyone cool.

Welcome

War Memorial

    

On the right hand side, Sinai Peninsula is the second of the two war memorials, the first just before Ismailia, and this one commemorating the battles which have taken place in this area over the past years.

Township

We passed towns like this one with its mosque and well laid out housing, baking in the sun on the left hand bank of the canal.

Railway Swing Bridge

At 12.00 we passed the only single track railway line crossing the canal.  The original bridge was destroyed during the 1967 war, and this is the replacement.

Suspension Bridge

Clear

    

At 13.00 we passed under the only road bridge crossing the canal which is 30 miles south of Port Said and is 6 miles long.  Built in the 1990’s, it was most unusual, as when passing underneath, there was no traffic what so ever using the bridge.

One explanation, maybe because of the present political situation in Egypt, they do not want undesirables dropping things on ships as they pass beneath.  Shortly after the bridge, we passed the second southbound convoy waiting in the designated canal lay by, as we made our own unrestricted passage.

Port Said

At 15.00 we were out of the canal, and made the passage at an average speed of 12 knots, and I was very impressed by how the convoy system now worked.

It had been a smooth and very relaxing passage for us; all the way along when approaching or passing places of interest, we had a running commentary from the bridge.

Now in the Mediterranean Sea and feeling a little more relaxed, as we had made it through one of the bottlenecks in our journey.

Day 110 - At Sea

Day 110 – Wednesday 30^th April 2014 – At Sea

It is sunny but cold on deck, as the wind has begun to increase to the point where the open decks were closed off, because of the 40 knot winds blowing across the decks.

The lunch time lecture was given by Commander Jeff Tell of the Royal Navy, a submariner of 30 years on ‘The Story of the U-boats’ – the greatest threat. U-boats threatened to bring the United Kingdom to her knees in both World Wars.  Miscalculation on the part of the Germans wasted opportunities, and presented the allies with the chance to fight back.  I thoroughly enjoyed the lecture, given by a man who has commanded four submarines in his career.

The pre-dinner pina coladas went down very nicely; back into the lobster for dinner.

Part of the night’s entertainment in the Queens Room was a tribute to the golden era of the big bands.  This is always very popular and I thoroughly enjoyed the dancing.

Into the Golden Lion, to finish off in the trivia quiz wipe out, although new members in the team, we still managed to lose.

Day 113 - At Sea

Day 113 – Saturday 3^rd May 2014 – At Sea

This morning the weather is sunny but still cold as we pass by the southern coast of Sardinia with its coastline towns and rugged mountains behind.

This morning’s lecture was given by Commander Jeff Tall on ‘The History of the Royal Naval Submarine Service (1901-45) – the Pirates’.  From the Baltic to the Dardanelles in the first world war , and the North Cape to the Far East in second world war.  Royal Navy submariners earned a fearsome reputation for their skill, daring, and sacrifice – and won 14 Victoria Crosses.

In the afternoon, as we came out from the shelter of Sardinia, the wind and swell from ahead began to increase to gale force, the vessel began slightly rolling and pitching, which we had not seen for some time.

Shopping on the Queen Elizabeth; let me take you through a series of pictures what is available:-

Fashion & Watches

Perfume & Jewellery

        

The shops are situated midship on Deck 3 with a staff of twenty seven serving customers.

     

Starboard side

Port side

    

     

Art Gallery Starboard

Port

    

Photography

The photography shop, where you can purchase photos, taken by the band of photographers, who pounce on you, when stepping ashore in any port, or any evening when it is a formal night, either on your way to one of the bars, or at the dining table.  They are a menace and have been known to work in packs.  Their products may be quite good, but they are very, very expensive.

Bookshop

The bookshop midship on Deck 2 has also a collection of marine paintings and photographs.

For you who like shopping or browsing, there is a wide variety, but be prepared to pay handsomely, maybe wait for the occasional bargain, or even an end of world voyage clearance sale!!!

Day 112 - Naples, Italy

Day 112 – Friday 2^nd May 2014 – Naples, Italy

Situated in the Bay of Naples opposite the imposing Mount Vesuvius is one of the most beautifully situated cities in Europe.  It is reputed to be one of the liveliest and most colourful with a flavour of its own. Rising from the sea and spreading to fill a natural amphitheatre.

We arrived at 08.00 at the cruise terminal, and last time I was here over thirty years ago, this berth usually had an aircraft carrier on it, as Naples was the Mediterranean base for the United States 6^th fleet.  Today in harbour; there was not a warship to be seen.

Herculanuem

Outside of the dock gate we negotiated with a taxi-driver to take us, Edwina, Kath, Colin and myself to Herculaneum.

Smaller and closer to Naples than Pompeii, which were destroyed by the catastrophic eruption of 79 AD.

Founded by the Greeks, and at the time of its sudden death was a small seaside resort.  Utterly drowned by molten lava, it has proved exceedingly difficult to excavate, since it was first relocated in the early 18^th century.

Despite the slow progress, the particular dynamics of the burial of Herculaneum – covered by flows of pyroclastic rock that solidified to an average height of 16 metres – has led to a phenomenon of preservation that is absolutely and nothing at all like Pompeii.

Large Taberna

This is a pub with a marble-cover counter, in which jars are inserted.  On the staggered shelves, also covered with marble, were stored the containers for serving food and drink.  On this site there are three pubs, and must have been a nice place to live in ancient times.

 

West side street

 

North side street

The streets with the column supports are a testimony of how well the township was built with the shops and houses on either side.  The large grandee houses with their internal gardens, sports facilities, places of worship, meeting places and of course the bath houses.

Central street

With the excellent audio guide you have a wonderful insight into how life went on in those days.  Describing the buildings and each of the houses with their own street number, the modern numbered plaques, depicting who lived there and their occupations.

The adornment of many of the buildings is breath taking, the artistry in the many frescos are   masterpieces, showing off their many and varied talents.

Hall of the Augustals

For the freed slaves, becoming Augustals, meant entering into the dynamics of upward mobility.  Their membership dedicated to worshipping the emperor Augustus, held in this meeting area, where all political, religious and commercial life took place.

    

House of Neptune & Amphitrie

Within this house this wall covering and painting just took my breath away, it is truly magnificent and this is inside a house where people lived. 

I have never been to any other site, which is so steeped in history; the preservation of this place, gives an exact insight of how this town functioned nearly two thousand years ago.

Time Capsule

Surrounded on three side by dwellings, built in the last one hundred years, these will all have to be demolished within the next one hundred years.  Why do we think we are so clever?  These people of a different millennium were far more skilful with the tools they had at their disposal, than we will ever be.  After four hours at this place, it was time to go back to reality, and our modern world.

Graffiti

A ten minute walk up the hill brought us to a suburban railway station, and you are hit by the graffiti adorning the trains and the station, the artistry was a million miles away from what we had just seen.

The train ride back into the city was an eye opener, for all of the wrong reasons.  The areas we passed through were very run down and neglected; after about twenty minutes, we arrived at Naples main railway station and emerged into the Garibaldi Piazza.

This was in a state of chaos, as it is a building site, due to the construction of a new underground metro and transport interchange.

We moved off down one of the main arteries towards the ship.  Although Corso Umberto; has many fine upmarket shops, looking down the side streets.  There is a different story of decay, and a feeling the inhabitants do not wish to look after their city, as here the graffiti artists have also moved in.

We found a pizza restaurant to our liking, and as Naples is by tradition the home of the pizza, it is the birthplace of the pizza margherita.  These we ordered, and with an excellent wine, thoroughly enjoyed the experience.  Before going back on the ship, we found a galertia, (ice cream shop) and after having one of these, our taste of Italian cuisine was complete.

Farewell

We sailed at 18.15 and on this cold and sometimes very wet day, I was quite happy leaving, even Mount Vesuvius was reluctant to show its summit. 

Naples had not changed one bit since I was last here, the centre’s fine buildings are not being looked after, which gives it feeling of neglect and disinterest, its people of many different races now, do not appear happy and never have been friendly.

An unusual show in the theatre at 22.30, by Marc Paul, who reads peoples’ minds, it was entertaining and very clever.  I left the show wondering, how he knew all things about people, who he had never met before; mind blowing.

Day 111 - At Sea

Day 111 – Thursday 1^st May 2014 – At Sea

Another cold sunny day and only the hardy are attempting to sunbath wrapped up in towels on the open decks.

The choir practice was a success, as we managed to get through our full repertoire, and looking forward to our concert in the theatre on 7^th May.

Messina Strait

Sunset over Sicily

    

For our pre-dinner drinks we went to the Commodore Club at the forward end of Deck 10 for the fine views, as we passed through the Messina Straits between the toe of Italy and Sicily.

It was a wonderful sight passing the city of Reggio Di Calabria on the mainland, and Messina on the Sicilian side, with the many ferries passing to and fro.   We took a pilot on board at 20.00 for the passage, and he left at 20.45.

Unfortunately, we could not see the volcano of Mount Etna, because of the cloud cover.  Later at 22.45, we passed the island of Stromboli, with the only active volcano in Europe, but the same; we could not see any activity.

Charleston Parade

Finalists

   

Tonight in the Queen’s Room is the Roaring Twenties, a celebration of the era of the Charleston.  I was amazed how many people had really got into the feel of it, with all of their stylish outfits. 

There was a competition to see who was the best dressed, a lady won in a white cloak and fashionable dress, informed she had made it herself, was pronounced the winner, then everybody joined in, doing the Charleston, a lot of fun.

Day 106 - At Sea

Day 106 – Saturday 26^th April 2014 – At Sea

Early in the gym this morning and looking out of the forward looking windows, it was very interesting watching the ship making her way through the narrow channel at the mouth of the Gulf of Aqaba which is only two miles wide between Egypt and Saudi Arabia.

Further to the south could be seen Sharm El Sheikh where we were to be stopping, but due to the political situation in Egypt, this has been given a body swerve, which I am very glad about.

Dance lesson is the jive and I always enjoy having a go at this one, brings back the memories.

In the afternoon, we had a short talk on the Suez Canal which I found very interesting, though a lot were disappointed by the lack of detail.

With the weather hot and sea calm, still enjoying the late afternoon sunshine on the loungers and even later, managed to get some practice in on the banjo.

The pre-dinner drinks and dinner were all excellent, especially when there is bread and butter pudding on the menu.

Finished off the night in the ballroom with the Nexus band playing, they are a bit like me, try hard but are not improving.

Day 105 - Aqaba, Jordan

Day 105 – Friday 25^th April 2014 – Aqaba, Jordan

    

     

We arrived in Aqaba at 08.00 with two other cruise ships on the terminal.

Aqaba is Jordan’s only seaport, located in the southernmost tip of Jordan on the Red Sea.

Aqaba provides the gateway to the rose-red City of Petra and is one of the most spectacular attractions in the Middle East, abandoned and forgotten for centuries.

A lot of the passengers from the ship are going on tour to Petra and I counted thirty six coaches on the quayside.

Eilat

Across the bay, lies the town of Eilat, Israel, and there is a border post where it is possible to cross between the two countries.

Colin’s son who works in Amman, the capital of Jordan, and with the two grandsons are visiting the ship today.

I took the 10.00 shuttle bus for the ten minute ride into town, and this time dropped off was in a hotel car park.

Cruise Terminal

Public Beach

I had a walk around the town taking in the newer hotels, where there was no access to their private part of the beach.

A wander round the shops was in sharp contrast to Dubai, there are no shopping malls here.



There are no signs of wealth for the locals; the main income appears to be from the port operations and the tourists, which appeared to be mainly from Russia, or the cruise ships.

It is Friday, so the Muslim holy day and lots of families are out in the cafes having lunch outside, before going to prayers at 13.00.  I went down to the public beach and strolled along the promenade; the beach was packed with the locals enjoying the amenities with lots of boats, at the small piers, taking them out on short trips around the bay.

Yacht Club

There is a marina and after requesting the security guard to enter, permission was granted, and I wander around looking at mostly motor cruisers.  The waters are crystal clear here, which is bit of a disadvantage in the marina, as you can see what the boats have thrown over the side, and is lying on the sea bed.

Situated here is the Royal Jordan Yacht Club, which opened at 13.00. I sat myself outside and enjoyed lunch with refreshing beers on the shaded terrace, while I thought of those sweltering in the heat of Petra.   The club had internet access and happily caught up with all communications.  It was 17.00 when I left after saying goodbyes to my friendly hosts.

Back Street Shops

Back into the hustle and bustle of the markets which were in full swing after re-opening at 16.00.  In and out of shops; haggling over things, which were not really worth the bother.

The meat, fruit and vegetable markets were the most interesting, as they had more colour on their displays, and appeared to be doing the most business.

For a final offering in the town, I went to the pub near the beach and next door to the McDonalds (this fast food chain are everywhere), called the ‘Rovers Return’ based on the ‘Coronation Street’ TV soap.  The décor inside was clean and the air conditioning worked, as I watched the world snooker championship on tele from the UK.

Farewell

The light is fading and it is time to head back to the ship on the shuttle bus.  With the town’s lights on, the streets, shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels all look very inviting, but I had seen the place in the daylight.  The darkness may hide the run down parts of the town, the drabness, unclean streets, the squalor and the unfriendly faces, but I had already made up my mind never to return.

We sailed at 09.30 slowly back down the Red Sea and around 23.00 on this clear night, there is something which is unusual to be seen anywhere in the world. 

Looking back you can see the lights of Eilat, in Israel, the lights of Aqaba, Jordan.  Looking to the left of the ship you are passing Saudi Arabia and to the right you are passing the Sinai Peninsula, Egypt.

All four countries seen at the same time.