Day 109 - Haifa

Day 109 – Tuesday 29^th April 2014 – Haifa

Another day in Haifa and a local bus took us to the outlying district of Bat Galim, where we changed buses and arrived at the district of Stella Maris.

Nautical Museum

Here we visited the National Maritime Museum, dedicated to telling the story of the struggle for the right to emigrate to Israel during the years 1934-48, and the navy’s involvement, with its recent struggles against its neighbouring countries.

Submarine

 

Missile Boat

Two of the exhibits, which I was impressed by, were the ones where you had full access to the interiors, which were the submarine and the missile boat.  They really gave you an insight into the living conditions and working environment, they were operating in while in action.

Torpedo Boats

There are also exhibits of torpedo boats, underwater operations and many armaments, the whole site is very well presented, and I really enjoyed the museum.

Cable Cars

Top Station

Near to the museum is the bottom station of Haifa’s cable car, situated at the beach, while at the crest of Mount Carmel is Stella Maris.  The system has three cars operating at each end and ride the from the bottom to the top is very good, with another panoramic view of Haifa from the top.

From this vantage point we walked along until we found a local bus stop,which took us to the Carmel Centre and headed for the ‘Bear Inn’ which unfortunately, was closed, and not opening until 17.00.

Undeterred, returned to a café, I had used the day before and caught up with the communications.

Returning to the ship via the funicular railway and back on board for 17.00

Farewell

We sailed at 19.00 and said my farewells from the open deck.  Haifa, I have always enjoyed, and the visit this time was no different.  From previous, I can see the difference, a lot of the dockside Arab quarter has been cleaned up.  The transport system is very good, the locals appear a lot happier.

When I was last here, just about everybody of a certain age were in military uniform, and all carrying arms.  This time it was not in evidence, so hopefully, things are improving with their neighbours.

Day 108 - Haifa, Israel

Day 108 – Monday 28^th April 2014 – Haifa, Israel

We arrived at 07.00 in Haifa, and many passengers were on tours to Bethlehem and Jerusalem.  I had been there many years before, and planned for an easy day ashore.  First of all, as this port of call was hastily put together, because of the troubles in Egypt.  We had to file through the cruise terminal building to be processed by Immigration and everybody was cleared by 09.30.

Queen Elizabeth

Haifa has changed hands many times in its troubled history.  The creation of the State of Israel in 1948, once again gave a new impetus to the growth of Haifa.  It is now the premier port of Israel and a major industrial area, with their only oil refinery.

Haifa is Israel’s third largest city, behind Jerusalem, and Tel Aviv.  Immigrants from the former Soviet Union constitute 25% of Haifa’s population and 10% are Arab citizens.  Haifa is commonly portrayed as a model of co-existence between Arabs and Jews, although tensions do still exist.

The ship was berthed in the centre of town, so no need for the shuttle bus.  I headed off for the botanical gardens.

Entrance

Botanical  Gardens

  

The gardens located in the heart of Haifa, comprise a staircase of nineteen terraces extending all the way up the northern slope of Mount Carmel, 550 metres high.

The golden-domed Shrine of the Bab, the resting place of the Prophet-Herald of the Baha’I Faith, stands on the central terrace looking across the bay.

Unfortunately, a lot of the gardens and terracing were out of bounds, as it was Holocaust Day.  Therefore, I was not able to climb up the terracing direct to the top of Mount Carmel but by a devious route of very steep steps, and winding paths I eventually made it to the top.

Haifa North

Haifa South

    

The trek in the heat of the day was well worth it, as you look over the city and the bay, seeing Galilee, to the north are the hills of Lebanon, and to the north east, the Golan Heights of Syria.

I stayed at the top for some time, as this is where the main tourist area is with its many shops, bars and cafes.

Funicular train at top Station

Bottom Station

   

I was not prepared to walk back down the moun, but took advantage of the ‘Carmelit’, which is the only funicular (underground metro) in Israel. The Carmelit runs between the Carmel Centre at the top, to Down Town (Paris Square) at the bottom, a journey of six minutes.

It is unusual and most enjoyable.  Wandering back from here, I arrived back on the ship at 17.00.

After a wash and brush up, I was back up the town for 20.00, and headed back to the top of Mount Carmel on the Carmelit.  Eventually, I found a pub to my liking, called the ‘Bear Inn’ and had an excellent meal, the Chef’s special, while watching an Israeli football match on the television.

On the way back to the ship near the port entrance, I found another place for a night cap, which was full of American male students on vacation, a strange lot, and I could not figure out, why they all wear rucksacks on their backs, on a night out.

Back on board, I went up on deck for a night time view over the harbour.  During the day, there were half a dozen large Israeli warships alongside their berths but there was only one there now.  The others, I presume out patrolling their coastline.  A submarine came to its berth at 01.00 after finishing its patrol.  The Israelis are forever watchful.

Day 107 - Suez Canal

Day 107 – Sunday 27^th April 2014 – Suez Canal

At 04.00 Queen Elizabeth proceeded into the waiting area, off the Port of Suez, where we dropped anchor to complete the formalities and confirm our position in the primary northbound convoy.

Convoy

The Suez Canal is known to us mariners as ‘the Ditch in the Sand’. At 07.00 we were at the entrance and second in line with a small warship ahead in the lead, and behind us, the German cruise liner ‘Europa 2’, a car carrier, container ship, and I could not make out the other ships at the end of the column.

The convoy system has the northbound one leaving at 07.00, and carries on straight through the canal, while from the north end the first convoy leaves at 01.00 and the second at 07.00.

Great Bitter Lake Anchorage

The canal is 100 miles long and at 08.30 we entered the Little Bitter Lake which is 2 miles wide and 3 miles long.  At 09.00 we were passing through the Great Bitter lake, this is a salt water lake, where the early morning southbound convoy was at anchor, waiting for us to pass by. 

Crossing Point

Ferry

There are various crossing points along the canal with small ferries transporting cars and lorries;  where ever one we passed, there were lines of vehicles waiting to cross.

Ditch in the Sand

This ditch in the sand is another wonderful piece of engineering built over a hundred years ago by the principal builder, Frenchman, Ferdinand De Lesseps. At the first attempt everything was done by hand, and consequently there was a big death toll, then with De Lesseps, and the use of mechanical diggers, the work progressed.  The house where he lived is still there in Ismaila, a town on Lake Tamasha, half way along the canal, and is the queen of the canal cities, with its tree shaded avenues and colonial style houses, and still the base for the maintenance of the canal.

Army Camp

On the left hand side of the canal, the African side there is a lot more greenery with irrigated fields and palms.  There are a lot of army camps and look out posts in evidence all the way along the canal, with Bailey bridge sections waiting to be used if ever needed, in any sort of conflict.

Deck 9 Lido

The forward end of the ship on deck 5 was open, so passenger could watch the transit from there, while others took advantage of the loungers at the aft end of Deck 9, to watch the scenery go by, and plenty of drinks to keep everyone cool.

Welcome

War Memorial

    

On the right hand side, Sinai Peninsula is the second of the two war memorials, the first just before Ismailia, and this one commemorating the battles which have taken place in this area over the past years.

Township

We passed towns like this one with its mosque and well laid out housing, baking in the sun on the left hand bank of the canal.

Railway Swing Bridge

At 12.00 we passed the only single track railway line crossing the canal.  The original bridge was destroyed during the 1967 war, and this is the replacement.

Suspension Bridge

Clear

    

At 13.00 we passed under the only road bridge crossing the canal which is 30 miles south of Port Said and is 6 miles long.  Built in the 1990’s, it was most unusual, as when passing underneath, there was no traffic what so ever using the bridge.

One explanation, maybe because of the present political situation in Egypt, they do not want undesirables dropping things on ships as they pass beneath.  Shortly after the bridge, we passed the second southbound convoy waiting in the designated canal lay by, as we made our own unrestricted passage.

Port Said

At 15.00 we were out of the canal, and made the passage at an average speed of 12 knots, and I was very impressed by how the convoy system now worked.

It had been a smooth and very relaxing passage for us; all the way along when approaching or passing places of interest, we had a running commentary from the bridge.

Now in the Mediterranean Sea and feeling a little more relaxed, as we had made it through one of the bottlenecks in our journey.

Day 110 - At Sea

Day 110 – Wednesday 30^th April 2014 – At Sea

It is sunny but cold on deck, as the wind has begun to increase to the point where the open decks were closed off, because of the 40 knot winds blowing across the decks.

The lunch time lecture was given by Commander Jeff Tell of the Royal Navy, a submariner of 30 years on ‘The Story of the U-boats’ – the greatest threat. U-boats threatened to bring the United Kingdom to her knees in both World Wars.  Miscalculation on the part of the Germans wasted opportunities, and presented the allies with the chance to fight back.  I thoroughly enjoyed the lecture, given by a man who has commanded four submarines in his career.

The pre-dinner pina coladas went down very nicely; back into the lobster for dinner.

Part of the night’s entertainment in the Queens Room was a tribute to the golden era of the big bands.  This is always very popular and I thoroughly enjoyed the dancing.

Into the Golden Lion, to finish off in the trivia quiz wipe out, although new members in the team, we still managed to lose.

Day 113 - At Sea

Day 113 – Saturday 3^rd May 2014 – At Sea

This morning the weather is sunny but still cold as we pass by the southern coast of Sardinia with its coastline towns and rugged mountains behind.

This morning’s lecture was given by Commander Jeff Tall on ‘The History of the Royal Naval Submarine Service (1901-45) – the Pirates’.  From the Baltic to the Dardanelles in the first world war , and the North Cape to the Far East in second world war.  Royal Navy submariners earned a fearsome reputation for their skill, daring, and sacrifice – and won 14 Victoria Crosses.

In the afternoon, as we came out from the shelter of Sardinia, the wind and swell from ahead began to increase to gale force, the vessel began slightly rolling and pitching, which we had not seen for some time.

Shopping on the Queen Elizabeth; let me take you through a series of pictures what is available:-

Fashion & Watches

Perfume & Jewellery

        

The shops are situated midship on Deck 3 with a staff of twenty seven serving customers.

     

Starboard side

Port side

    

     

Art Gallery Starboard

Port

    

Photography

The photography shop, where you can purchase photos, taken by the band of photographers, who pounce on you, when stepping ashore in any port, or any evening when it is a formal night, either on your way to one of the bars, or at the dining table.  They are a menace and have been known to work in packs.  Their products may be quite good, but they are very, very expensive.

Bookshop

The bookshop midship on Deck 2 has also a collection of marine paintings and photographs.

For you who like shopping or browsing, there is a wide variety, but be prepared to pay handsomely, maybe wait for the occasional bargain, or even an end of world voyage clearance sale!!!

Day 112 - Naples, Italy

Day 112 – Friday 2^nd May 2014 – Naples, Italy

Situated in the Bay of Naples opposite the imposing Mount Vesuvius is one of the most beautifully situated cities in Europe.  It is reputed to be one of the liveliest and most colourful with a flavour of its own. Rising from the sea and spreading to fill a natural amphitheatre.

We arrived at 08.00 at the cruise terminal, and last time I was here over thirty years ago, this berth usually had an aircraft carrier on it, as Naples was the Mediterranean base for the United States 6^th fleet.  Today in harbour; there was not a warship to be seen.

Herculanuem

Outside of the dock gate we negotiated with a taxi-driver to take us, Edwina, Kath, Colin and myself to Herculaneum.

Smaller and closer to Naples than Pompeii, which were destroyed by the catastrophic eruption of 79 AD.

Founded by the Greeks, and at the time of its sudden death was a small seaside resort.  Utterly drowned by molten lava, it has proved exceedingly difficult to excavate, since it was first relocated in the early 18^th century.

Despite the slow progress, the particular dynamics of the burial of Herculaneum – covered by flows of pyroclastic rock that solidified to an average height of 16 metres – has led to a phenomenon of preservation that is absolutely and nothing at all like Pompeii.

Large Taberna

This is a pub with a marble-cover counter, in which jars are inserted.  On the staggered shelves, also covered with marble, were stored the containers for serving food and drink.  On this site there are three pubs, and must have been a nice place to live in ancient times.

 

West side street

 

North side street

The streets with the column supports are a testimony of how well the township was built with the shops and houses on either side.  The large grandee houses with their internal gardens, sports facilities, places of worship, meeting places and of course the bath houses.

Central street

With the excellent audio guide you have a wonderful insight into how life went on in those days.  Describing the buildings and each of the houses with their own street number, the modern numbered plaques, depicting who lived there and their occupations.

The adornment of many of the buildings is breath taking, the artistry in the many frescos are   masterpieces, showing off their many and varied talents.

Hall of the Augustals

For the freed slaves, becoming Augustals, meant entering into the dynamics of upward mobility.  Their membership dedicated to worshipping the emperor Augustus, held in this meeting area, where all political, religious and commercial life took place.

    

House of Neptune & Amphitrie

Within this house this wall covering and painting just took my breath away, it is truly magnificent and this is inside a house where people lived. 

I have never been to any other site, which is so steeped in history; the preservation of this place, gives an exact insight of how this town functioned nearly two thousand years ago.

Time Capsule

Surrounded on three side by dwellings, built in the last one hundred years, these will all have to be demolished within the next one hundred years.  Why do we think we are so clever?  These people of a different millennium were far more skilful with the tools they had at their disposal, than we will ever be.  After four hours at this place, it was time to go back to reality, and our modern world.

Graffiti

A ten minute walk up the hill brought us to a suburban railway station, and you are hit by the graffiti adorning the trains and the station, the artistry was a million miles away from what we had just seen.

The train ride back into the city was an eye opener, for all of the wrong reasons.  The areas we passed through were very run down and neglected; after about twenty minutes, we arrived at Naples main railway station and emerged into the Garibaldi Piazza.

This was in a state of chaos, as it is a building site, due to the construction of a new underground metro and transport interchange.

We moved off down one of the main arteries towards the ship.  Although Corso Umberto; has many fine upmarket shops, looking down the side streets.  There is a different story of decay, and a feeling the inhabitants do not wish to look after their city, as here the graffiti artists have also moved in.

We found a pizza restaurant to our liking, and as Naples is by tradition the home of the pizza, it is the birthplace of the pizza margherita.  These we ordered, and with an excellent wine, thoroughly enjoyed the experience.  Before going back on the ship, we found a galertia, (ice cream shop) and after having one of these, our taste of Italian cuisine was complete.

Farewell

We sailed at 18.15 and on this cold and sometimes very wet day, I was quite happy leaving, even Mount Vesuvius was reluctant to show its summit. 

Naples had not changed one bit since I was last here, the centre’s fine buildings are not being looked after, which gives it feeling of neglect and disinterest, its people of many different races now, do not appear happy and never have been friendly.

An unusual show in the theatre at 22.30, by Marc Paul, who reads peoples’ minds, it was entertaining and very clever.  I left the show wondering, how he knew all things about people, who he had never met before; mind blowing.

Day 111 - At Sea

Day 111 – Thursday 1^st May 2014 – At Sea

Another cold sunny day and only the hardy are attempting to sunbath wrapped up in towels on the open decks.

The choir practice was a success, as we managed to get through our full repertoire, and looking forward to our concert in the theatre on 7^th May.

Messina Strait

Sunset over Sicily

    

For our pre-dinner drinks we went to the Commodore Club at the forward end of Deck 10 for the fine views, as we passed through the Messina Straits between the toe of Italy and Sicily.

It was a wonderful sight passing the city of Reggio Di Calabria on the mainland, and Messina on the Sicilian side, with the many ferries passing to and fro.   We took a pilot on board at 20.00 for the passage, and he left at 20.45.

Unfortunately, we could not see the volcano of Mount Etna, because of the cloud cover.  Later at 22.45, we passed the island of Stromboli, with the only active volcano in Europe, but the same; we could not see any activity.

Charleston Parade

Finalists

   

Tonight in the Queen’s Room is the Roaring Twenties, a celebration of the era of the Charleston.  I was amazed how many people had really got into the feel of it, with all of their stylish outfits. 

There was a competition to see who was the best dressed, a lady won in a white cloak and fashionable dress, informed she had made it herself, was pronounced the winner, then everybody joined in, doing the Charleston, a lot of fun.